After my experience with the bogus Valle del Silencio, I pedalled through town in the opposite direction, through some little
neighbourhoods
and encountered a road leading off to the Finca (ranch, farm) Rene Rivera. Rode down
there and was welcomed by the owner. He was cooking his dinner over an open fire, a rice and corn mixture, stirring with a wooden stick, then
showed me around the farm, all organic.
Rene boasted about his fine
tobacco, 90% less nicotine, walked me through the papaya, yucca,
avocado, mango and coffee crops, mostly out of season.
Lovingly puffing one of his stogies
The tobacco barn
Yucca
Then he began to
elaborate on the system where the government gets 90% of everything and he
gets 10. As he went on he became more impassioned about the life of
campesinos (farmers) and the inequities. He has a six months old daughter with
health problems from poor nutrition. The much lauded health care system wasn't working for him. He wore rags essentially and his
dirt floored house would be suitable for chickens. In the back of my mind I wondered
if this was another scam and his Mercedes was parked out back. But I
don't think so. I left feeling quite disturbed. Vive la revolution.
Leaving the farm I continued cycling out of town with the intention of visiting
Leaving the farm I continued cycling out of town with the intention of visiting
Here, back
in the plaza in Viñales, watching all the scammers and jiteneros,
hustling young tourist girls, just hanging out trying to work any sort
of scam, whistling and shouting. I feel like you can't trust anyone who
is friendly, or just approaches you for any reason. Asking directions
can be perilous.
Things I like: uncorrupt cops, high incidence of electric motos particularly in Viñales, Estellita, my host, the beauty of Viñales.
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